I’m not one to look sloppy on a date. But given my past experiences with laksa, I know exactly how this afternoon will turn out. Donning an airy tee and shorts, I step into Penang Culture.
Chef Wong, who has helmed Penang Culture since its inception, looks over. “Welcome, Kenneth,” the chef says, giving me a warm handshake. “I hope you’re a fan of Assam Laksa?”
My breath catches in my throat. Truth is, I’ve never tried what CNN calls the “7th most delicious dish in the world”. Chef Wong is clearly disappointed: “Aiyoh, you have no idea what you’re missing out on."
Chef Wong’s reaction isn’t surprising. Born and raised in the food haven otherwise known as Penang, he has grown up with good food. He’s also been raised with the pride of being able to whip up a good Penangite dish. I give Chef Wong a sheepish look.
With my confession out of the way, Chef Wong points me to the colourful array of ingredients that make up Assam Laksa: Ginger flower, tamarind paste and peel, pineapples, mint leaves, and a special blend of lemongrass, yellow ginger, shallots and belachan.
“The laksa you’re used to has a coconut-based curry soup,” Chef Wong replies as he leads me to a boiling pot. “Ours is made with a soup boiled with sardines and tamarind.” That certainly explains Assam Laksa’s famed sour yet fragrant taste.
To further preserve its authenticity, Chef Wong goes to great lengths to obtain his laksa noodles all the way from Penang. A strand of laksa noodle in hand, I notice how it’s as thick as mee tai mak, but has a pockmarked surface that’s great for catching the soup.
To further preserve its authenticity, Chef Wong goes to great lengths to obtain his laksa noodles all the way from Penang.
I think about my nephew, whose 21st birthday is coming up. How wonderful it’d be to spice up the buffet table with Assam Laksa, especially with my relatives’ love of Penang cuisine. Penang catering will deliver smiles – no doubts about it. I make a mental note.
Chef Wong picks up the pot lid. Peering in, I see the gently bubbling stock, brimming with ingredients. He adds a plate of sardines to the mix. “To thicken and intensify the flavours, we boil this soup for four hours."
Thankfully, Chef Wong had the foresight to begin the process before I arrive. With all that preamble, my stomach isn’t prepared to wait four hours.
“But you don’t get good Assam Laksa from just having the right ingredients,” Chef Wong says, bringing out the laksa noodles. “It takes some technique to blanch the noodles well. To demonstrate his point, the chef dips the noodles into the boiling stock with a skimming spoon.
A few moments later, the noodles are lifted out, and placed in cold water for the extra bounce.
It’s time for my favourite part of the afternoon. I excuse myself to set up the dining table. Soon enough, Chef Wong emerges with huge bowls.
I look down at the kaleidoscope of sumptuous ingredients. “Go on, try it.” Chef Wong nudged.
I put a heapful of Assam Laksa in my mouth. It takes a moment for the spicy, minty, flowery, sweet and sour flavours to hit home. And then, pure bliss.
I look up at Chef Wong, who has joined us in savouring the delicacy. And I see it, the glint in his eyes.
Perhaps, every time a Penangite orders the Assam Laksa, they’re not just satisfying a craving. They’re taking a trip home.
